Sunset Magazine’s Escape to Orcas Island
April 23rd, 2012
Sunset Magazine May 2012
Weekend Escape: Explore the most beloved island of the San Juans, on any budget
Photo: Thomas J. Story
Orcas Island: High & Low. There’s nothing fancy-pants about Washington’s Orcas Island – people come to hike the lush rolling hills, soak up the coastal views, and maybe spot a whale. But even in the laid-back San Juans, island living ain’t cheap. Here, we’ve come up with great ways to stretch a dollar (take the ferry, pack a tent), as well as worth-it splurges (okay, the seaplane trip is pretty cool). And whether you spend or save, the island’s slower, greener, more low-key way of life will suck you in.
Weekend Escape: High
Getting there: You’ll spend from $298 (standard round-trip fare per person) on the hourlong seaplane flight from Seattle to Orcas Island on Kenmore Air. But it’s not any old plane flight; the low-elevation trajectory means you could spot whales, eagles, and seals from the air. kenmoreair.com
Eat: Make sure you book dinner at Allium Restaurant, which burst onto the scene in 2010. Nothing can really top a bowl of chef Lisa Nakamura’s saffron clam chowder eaten out on the deck with views down Eastsound. About $120 for two, including wine; 310 Main St., Eastsound; 360/376-4904 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting360/376-4904end_of_the_skype_highlighting. alliumonorcas.com
Do:Outer Island Expeditions runs $99 whale-watching tours, but for $825, you and nine friends get the 32-foot Blackfish and its knowledgeable captain completely to yourselves. Which means you can organize your own fishing/crabbing/whale-watching tour all in one trip. outerislandx.com
Shop: If $55 seems like a reasonable amount to spend on an ice cream scooper, head to Smith & Speed Mercantile (294 A St., Eastsound;smithandspeed.com), the alternative country store that sells a superchic one with a turned maple handle. Nest (closed Sunday; 18 Haven Rd., Eastsound; 360/376-4580 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting360/376-4580end_of_the_skype_highlighting) has sweet, island-vibe decor like driftwood gates.
Stay: At $200 a night, Turtleback Farm Inn (turtlebackinn.com) is spendy for Orcas, but you’ll feel like you’re on your own private farm. The Pippin room in the Orchard House gives you a deck overlooking the apple orchard and pasture – as well as Chompers, the friendly sheep – and the homemade breakfast spread stars eggs from the inn’s own chickens. If you really want to go over the top, grab six friends and rent the luxe Cottage Knoll villa (cottageknoll.com) – with sweeping views of the strait and islands. At (gulp) $1,000 a night, it’s still cheaper than a trip to say, Provence.
(Round-trip seaplane flight from Seattle to Orcas Island: $298; Turtleback Farm Inn: $200/night; Dinner at Allium: $120 for two; Private whale-watching tour: $825 for 10)
Weekend Escape: Low
Photo: Andrea Gomez Romero
Getting there: Think of the hourlong ferry ride from Anacortes to Orcas Island as time to unwind in preparation for a weekend with no cellphone or internet service. Plunk down your fare and soak up the scenery. $60 round-trip/vehicle with two adults; wsdot.wa.gov/ferries
Eat: At Passionate for Pies, the little shop in downtown Eastsound, filling for their excellent pot pies are sourced locally. We loved the pork, nettle, and potato. And it’s just $11, so you might want to splurge on a $5.75 slice of chocolate cream pie as a finale. 460 Main, Eastsound; 360/376-7437 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting360/376-7437end_of_the_skype_highlighting.
Do: The million-dollar views are all free on a hike up Turtleback Mountain. About an hour in from the south trailhead, there’s a bench perfectly positioned for gazing out over the Salish Sea. In late May and June, you’ll see wildflowers, wild berry blossoms, hawks, and teensy green frogs that are almost too cute. South trailhead at top of Wild Rose Lane, off Deer Harbor Rd.; scjlandbank.org/turtle_back.
Shop: Local artisans gather at the Orcas Island Farmers’ Market (Village Green, N. Beach Rd.; orcasislandfarmersmarket.org) in Eastsound, which is a great place to pick up $10 dishes from Bivaletz Stoneware and felt pincushions from Bossy’s Feltworks. Lily (310 Main, Eastsound; lilyonorcas.com), a postage stamp-size snack shop, has island-made granola ($9) as well as island-roasted coffee (10.50) to take home and Lopez Island ice cream to eat right away.
Stay: A water view at $25 a night? Yes, please. Moran State Park, on the island’s eastern side, is home to Mt. Constitution, the highest point in the San Juan Islands – as well as five fresh-water lakes, more than 35 miles of trails, and 151 tent spaces. A “premium site” gets you a lake view for $25. 3572 Olga Rd., Olga; parks.wa.gov.
(Round-trip ferry ride from Anacortes: $60; Camping at Moran State Park: $25/night; Lunch at Passionate for Pies: $11; Hike up Turtleback Mountain for amazing views: Free.
Article by: Jess Thompson
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Bed & Breakfast, Blog, Eastsound, Location, Lodging, Moran State Park, Orcas Island, Travel, Turtleback Mountain Preserve, Uncategorized, Vacation
Seattle Magazine Explores ‘Small Town Getaways’
April 21st, 2012
Seattle Magazine May 2012
Small Town Getaways: Bask in the vistas and stroll the quaint streets of these waterfront retreats
Northern Shores: Eastsound
Seattle Magazine
Feel your city worries fall away as you rumble steadily northward up Puget Sound on one of our state’s iconic green-and-white ferryboats; you’ll be on “island time” by nightfall. Though it takes effort to get there – ferries depart from Anacortes; waits can top two hours in summer – Orcas Island’s biggest hamlet, Eastsound, is just the right size for urbanites longing for a simpler, slower pace – without sacrificing amenities. Perched on East Sound’s idyllic Fishing Bay, downtown Eastsound’s five or so blocks boast zero traffic lights, one single-screen movie theater, and a handful of eclectic shops and restaurants.
Stroll along Main Street and take in spectacular views of the bay and miniscule Indian Island, then stop in at Darvill’s Bookstore, the island’s independent 37-year-old bookstore, for a leisurely browse and a latte from the little cafe in back. Next door, find locally made pottery, paintings, jewelry, glass art and more at Crow Valley Pottery. Head north a few blocks and duck into Tres Fabu, a tucked-away haven for edgy, girly-girl fashions. Just beyond, sate your sweet tooth with handmade Italian gelato or a French crepe from Enzo’s Italian Caffe, or sup on an exceptional saffron clam chowder ($9) at lovely waterfront Allium, newly opened by former French Laundry chef Lisa Nakamura.
Just a mile and a half out of town is the Inn at Ship Bay, a sweet boutique hotel with sweeping water views and gas stoves in most rooms. Or go for luxe with a water-view suite at Rosario Resort and Spa.
Wood's Cove in Eastsound
For unsurpassed views of the San Juans, Bellingham, Vancouver and beyond, head east out of town for the 20-minute drive to the top of Mount Constitution, at 2,409 feet, the highest point in the archipelago. From there, pick up the 6.7-mile round-trip trail down to lovely Mountain Lake; you’ll be rewarded with sweeping vistas, old-growth groves and often visitations by bold and curious island deer.
Getting There: From Anacortes, 90 minutes north of Seattle, catch the San Juan Islands ferry to Orcas Island. Turn left after exiting the ferry for the 20-minute drive into Eastsound. Ferry schedules are at www.wsdot.wa.gov/ferries.
Coordinates: Darvill’s Bookstore, 296 Main St.; 360.376.2135; darvillsbookstore.com. Crow Valley Pottery, 296 Main St.; 360.376.4260; crowvalley.com. Tres Fabu, 238 North Beach Road; 360.376.7673; tresfabu.com. Enzo’s Italian Caffe, 365 North Beach Road; 360.376.3732 . Allium, 310 Main St.; 360.376.4904; alliumonorcas.com. Inn At Ship Bay, 326 Olga Road; 360.376.5886 ; innatshipbay.com. Rosario Resort and Spa, 1400 Rosario Road; 360.376.2222 rosarioresort.com
Credit: Kristen Russell
Eastsound, Location, Lodging, Orcas Island, Uncategorized
Northwest Travel Magazine Explores Orcas Island
April 4th, 2012
Northwest Travel Magazine Spring 2012
The San Juan Islands:
Create Your Own Adventure
Ask any traveler to Washington’s San Juan Islands what, besides salt water, sets this 170-plus island archipelago apart. They’ll rave about the stunning scenery and abundant wildlife no matter which direction you look. They’ll recall a sense of letting-go as if “real world” problems can’t cross water. They’ll tell you about a special place they discovered or an activity that made the trip one they’ll always remember.
“The magic happens as soon as you step on the ferry. It’s spectacular no matter what time of year.”
But behind every great San Juan Islands experience, whether it’s an outdoor adventure or a romantic retreat, are islanders who thrive on sharing their passion for the place they call home. Knowing who they are and what they offer can launch your next island experience on an exhilarating new course.
Lisa Nakamura, owner and chef at Allium on Orcas Island is one such islander. According to her, “The magic happens as soon as you step on the ferry. It’s spectacular no matter what time of year.”
When Nakamura arrived nearly two years ago, she had never been to Orcas Island before. Now she’s helping people have culinary adventures
Eastsound
that are quintessential island experiences. Before arriving here, she worked under such culinary rock-stars as Thomas Keller, owner and chef at the much-lauded French Laundry in Napa. Blending her top-chef skills with the abundance of fresh island ingredients, she delivers a casual and relaxed dining experience that’s as much a natural part of the islands as a walk on the beach.
The people who make visiting the San Juan Islands the stuff of great memories range from the naturalist guide who showed you your first breaching orca to the island artist with whose work you fell in love, from the chef who creates your dinner to the host at your lodging.
On Orcas Island, Christopher Peacock, Rosario Resort and Spa General Manager, is managing the ongoing renovation and transformation of this graceful property that originated as a private estate at the entrance to Moran State Park. Rosario Resort has served generations of travelers to this emerald-draped island. And Rosario has a full-service marina for those traveling by boat.
Peacock, a local historian and accomplished musician, is in his element in the original Moran Mansion, the resort’s centerpiece. He relishes the fact that he can share a slice of local history with visitors in regularly scheduled, narrated slide shows, with a concert on the mansion’s massive pipe organ thrown in.
When it’s time to dine, there’s no shortage of tempting spots serving up island culinary authenticity. The islands are home to thriving small, independent agricultural and fishing operations that local chefs support, so it’s best to seek out establishments that put local island ingredients center stage.
For travelers who make the time, a San Juan Islands adventure isn’t complete with hitting the waves. Guides to seek out are Captain David Lutz of Emerald Isle Sailing Charters … and Jeff Zbornik of Shearwater Sea Kayak Tours. Zbornik, a long-time islander, has built a reputation as a “kayaker’s kayaker.”
Moran State Park
Lutz operates Emerald Isle Sailing Charters from Deer Harbor Marina on Orcas. He’s a competent seafaring man and long-time islander who welcomes travelers aboard his 54-foot ketch “Na ‘Walak” (meaning, “Spirit of Nature”). His Eco-friendly excursions range from day trips to a week or more and sail to the more remote reaches and beaches of the San Juans. Lutz is a knowledgeable naturalist guide, local historian and ethnobotanist. Besides relaxing with the wind in your fact as you set sail, you’ll enjoy three sumptuous gourmet meals a day, learn about local lore and hear an insider’s perspective on this sensitive ecosystem. According to Lutz, “It takes people about three days to really shed the outside world and tune in to their surroundings in the San Juans.”
That’s the stuff that adventures – and memories – are made of.
Links
Lodging:
Rosario Resort and Space, www.rosarioresort.com
Outlook Inn, www.outlookinn.com
Deer Harbor Inn, www.deerharborinn.com
West Beach Resort, www.westbeachresort.com
Dining:
Allium, www.alliumonorcas.com
New Leaf Cafe, www.outlookinn.com/new-leaf-cafe
The Mansion Restaurant, Rosario Resort, www.rosarioresort.com/dining.htm
Maritime Recreation:
Emerald Island Sailing Charters, www.emeraldislesailing.com
Shearwater Sea Kayak Tours, www.shearwaterkayaks.com
For more information:
San Juan Island Visitors Bureau, www.visitsanjuans
